After a night in Amiens we hit the trail
for a continuation of our look at important sites on the Western Front, and
especially those places that are of special importance to Australia. The first
of these was Fromelles. This was the
site of the first infantry attack by Australian soldiers in France. Many
Gallipoli veterans went “over the top” here. Many died in what was a useless
attack.
The memorial consists of one man
carrying another wounded man to safety, and is called the Cobbers
memorial.
Our visit was on a cold, blustery and
wet day. The fields were very muddy and thick with mud. Just like it would have
been for the soldiers on the day of the attack.
After the Australians organised a truce
with the Germans to rescue the wounded, they were forbidden to do this by their
English leadership. So they did it anyway!
A few hundred meters away is the fully
Australian cemetery called VC Corner. It has this name because they reckoned
every man in it was a hero. The cemetery was created after the war when only
410 men from the 1300 men killed at Fromelles were found. None could be
identified so they were buried together and 410 red rose bushes were planted
instead of a lot of white headstones with no name on them.
We returned to the bus and drove toward
our 3rd country, Belgium.
We soon came to the lovely town of Ipers
(once called Ypres). This town was totally destroyed during WW1 and was rebuilt
exactly the way it was before the war.
The thing that was most on the boys mind
was ….Lunch!
Although in Belgium James thought that Pasta was needed to “refuel” his tank.
After lunch we travelled to Tyne Cot
Cemetary. This is the largest Commonwealth Cemetary in the world with 12,000
men interned within its walls. It is a very sobering thing to walk among the
graves and see the ages of these very young men. Over 8,000 of these graves are
without a name.
There are few places along the old
Western Front that have trenches still clear and visible, but at a small
private museum there is a section of trenches still in their original form.
This is at the Hill 62 Trench Museum. This section has been preserved
relatively intact. On a cold, wet and rainy day like today it was a perfect
illustration to the students of the real conditions that would have been
experienced by the soldiers.
The Museum also housed a small but very
extensive collection of WW1 Memorabilia. This was everything from posters to
motorbikes and even weapons.
Our last stop with the bus was at Essex
Farm memorial and cemetery. Essex Farm was an advanced aid station. This is
where the men were brought after 1st aid where they were wounded. It
is here that doctors tried to save limbs and lives during the 2nd
battle of Ypres. One of these doctors was John McCrae. After the things he saw
prompted him to write one of the seminal WW1 Poems, “In Flanders Fields”.
In
Flanders Fields
In
Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between
the crosses, row on row,
That
mark our place; and in the sky
The
larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce
heard amid the guns below.
We
are the dead. Short days ago
We
lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved,
and were loved, and now we lie
In
Flanders fields.
Take
up our quarrel with the foe:
To
you from failing hands, we throw
The
torch; be yours to hold it high.
If
ye break faith with us who die
We
shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In
Flanders fields.
By this time we were tired and in need
of warmth and food. So we went to our Hostel in Ypres. We found this to be
sited a mere 100 meters from the Menin Gate, where we wanted to watch the last
post ceremony carried out by the fire brigade of Ypres every night at 8pm since
WW1. (except during the German occupation of WW2)
However dinner was first and the boys
enjoyed a ½ a chicken and chips for dinner at a local restaurant.
We also discovered that a local
Chocolate shop had heard of our visit and welcomed the boys to a special deal
to buy chocolate. So I am sure that everyone at home will look forward to their
share of the delicious Belgium Chocolate. If it gets home !!!
The ceremony occurs inside the Menin
Gate Memorial that contains the names of nearly 55,000 men who died on the
Ypres Salient and have no known grave.
The students stood silently as the buglers
plaid the last post. They proudly held the Australian Flag that we had brought
with us, and honoured the men of Australia whose names are on the walls behind
them,
The evening ended well and we have
returned to our Hostel for a very early start tomorrow to get to Lille for the
train to England.
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